Hiroyoshi’s omakase rewards discerning sushi devotees

Hiroyoshi’s sashimi appetizer.
Photo: Wade Vandervort

Las Vegans are addicted to sushi, and with all-you-can-eat joints dotting the Valley, they’ve got lots of chances to fill up on it. Problem is, many of those spots serve lower-quality fish as a means of padding their margins. And, generally speaking, when it comes to sushi, you get what you pay for.

That doesn’t mean you can’t find great neighborhood sushi in our Valley. A pair of Chinatown restaurants—Yui Edomae Sushi and Kabuto Edomae Sushi—are the crown jewels of the local scene, offering authentic edomae-style sushi—ornate nigiri served a single piece at a time. But that authenticity comes at a price few can afford on a regular basis. Less costly are westside institutions Sen of Japan and Soho Japanese Restaurant, also known for the quality of their fish. And unbeknownst to most, there’s Sushi Hiroyoshi, which deserves similar consideration.

Located well outside Chinatown’s main spoke in a west Charleston strip mall, the modestly adorned, 30-seat Hiroyoshi is marked by a glowing sign that simply reads “Sushi.” Yet it serves some of the best fish in town. It’s best to experience Hiroyoshi through its seasonally changing $100 omakase, spanning raw and cooked chef-chosen courses that culminate in a progression of immaculate nigiri.

Other courses include silky house-made tofu topped with dollops of uni (sea urchin) and ikura (salmon roe); immaculate sashimi; foie gras gilded with gold flakes and wading in a sharp dashi; and a trio of cooked dishes: smoky, uni butter-washed grilled prawns; savory miso black cod and uni tempura dusted with green tea salt.

Chef Hiro-san’s fascination with uni doesn’t stop there. His uni duo is a fixture offering that allows diners to compare the subtle differences in salinity between Santa Barbara, California, and Hokkaido, Japan, versions. It’s a thoughtful pairing that exemplifies the chef’s attention to detail and makes Hiroyoshi a must-visit for those serious about their sushi.

Sushi Hiroyoshi 5900 W. Charleston Blvd. #10, 702-823-2110. Tuesday-Wednesday, Saturday-Sunday, 5-9:30 p.m.; Thursday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., 5-9:30 p.m.

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Jim Begley

Jim Begley is an avid food lover who began writing about his Las Vegas dining adventures to defray his obscene ...

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