Given the vibrancy of Las Vegas’ Asian dining scene, it’s no huge shock that a storied dumpling institution has relocated to our desert after 12 successful years in Seattle. What is surprising? Instead of heading to Chinatown, Fu Man Dumpling House opened its new, 20-something-seat eatery on Smoke Ranch in the northwest Valley.
As the name suggests, boiled dumplings are the restaurant’s specialty, and they’re an absolute steal at $9.95 per dozen. Tender wrappers, each plumped up to the size of a playing card, swaddle a juicy pork/vegetable blend worthy of being trumpeted on the marquee. If fried is more your style, the pot stickers (six for $9.55)— essentially pan-fried dumplings—will be your go-to. Or maybe try the Taiwanese meat pie ($9.55), a flaky, deep-fried crust encasing a hearty pork/beef patty. Frankly, there’s no wrong here.
On the lighter side, an addictive vinegary seaweed salad ($3.50), rife with garlic, makes for a worthy foil to the meatier menu options. And the green onion pancake (also $9.55!) arrives inexplicably airy even though it’s thicker than other local renditions.
A rotating selection of complementary pickled vegetables, ranging from daikon to cucumbers, comes with every meal. (Pray that the spicy, sweet string beans are on offer when you visit—they’re memorable enough to warrant inclusion on the menu on their own.) And then there’s the garlic sauce, so good the family used to bottle it for retail sale. Horde a couple of miniature plastic containers to tide you over, because you’ll want to liberally pour the slightly pungent, slightly sweet soy sauce derivative on damn near everything. Just remember some breath mints on the way out.
Fu Man Dumpling House 6679 Smoke Ranch Road, 702-646-2969. Tuesday-Sunday, 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; 4:30-9 p.m.