Devin Hashimoto is one of the great fine-dining chefs of the Strip who probably hasn’t been appropriately celebrated. Before he opened Wynn’s stunning palace of Japanese cuisine Mizumi in 2012, he cut his teeth in the kitchen of the former Alex, one of the Boulevard’s all-time great upscale dining rooms.
Now he’s been tasked with maintaining the cool culinary culture—and spicing up the menu—for Andrea’s at Encore, and after about three months in his new kitchen, Hashimoto is just getting comfortable. “It’s nice to be doing something [different] and not so straight-ahead Japanese after a pretty long run there [at Mizumi],” he says. “And there’s a different clientele here with the club.”
Hashimoto has kept many of the club crowd’s favorite dishes on the menu, but no matter what kind of diner you are, you need to try Hashimoto’s decadent new offerings. The Snake River Farms Wagyu shortrib ($60) is incredible, a hybrid of Hawaiian loco moco and Korean bibimbap with ridiculously rich beef and red wine jus, a poached organic egg and pineapple and lap cheong fried rice. Braised Mugifuji pork belly with pickled cherries and roasted eggplant mapo tofu ($32) might also haunt your dreams with deliciousness. Hashimoto has also crafted a pan-roasted salmon with coconut sticky rice and mango-cucumber salad ($46) and upgraded the beloved five-spice garlic-fried lobster to a 2.5-pounder ($98), an unforgettable feast for the table.
ANDREA’S Encore, 702-770-5340. Sunday-Thursday, 6-10:30 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 6-11:30 p.m.